Restaurants in the Highlands of Scotland have not always been blessed with a wealth and variety of fresh fruit and vegetables. Happily, the Torridon grows most of what it needs in its own kitchen garden where Les Bates toils from dawn and Chef Bruno puts the abundance of fresh produce to great use on the fine dining menu. Tonight, for example, he has created a salad of lovage, picked fresh from the garden to accompany the pan fried fillet of line-caught seabass you can see in the photograph. There is the aroma of rosemary in the fresh bread and a hint of wild garlic in the leek veloute. Other recent dishes which have benefited from Les’ hard work include scallops garnished with fresh young pea shoots and a sumptuous lavender ice cream served with warm chocolate fondant.

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