Oh what a lovely smell! I was half way between cutting into a large wild salmon and shouting at my kitchen staff when ten polystyrene boxes arrived at the kitchen door. Cheese, I said to myself, and lots of it from blues to hard to goats to ewes; raw ones, pasteurised. And to top it all, a great block of traditional original fine pecorino. What more can a cheese-obsessed handsome young chef want, I said to myself. Well probably lots but all the same, this is great.

Most of my cheese is sourced by my wonderful friend from Lymekilns Cheesemonger in Glasgow. Garry Saunders is a nice fellow who knows far too much about cheese and bike riding and women (so he tells me). They offer an excellent mail order service covering the whole of Britain. So thank for the lovely smell in the cheese fridge.

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